Maybe a good business for someone that has a metal CNC machine. Triangular, increasing depth kind of thing. But you would have to have a 3D sort of template to work well. And to have a router type collar that rides on a custom made template would speed things up a lot. ![]() This thing would be able to cut and grind at any angle and have a small enough blade to get into little corners. It would use a spiral-rasp type of blade. I suppose if I were to design a coping machine it would be the size of a jigsaw and operate like a band saw. I always use a coping saw on the coped ends. I cut the longer pieces 1/8 -1/4 inch longer to get a good crush fit on the copes. I always install the shorter pieces of crown first. I am trying to decide if it should be built heavy-duty for the moulding manufacturer to use, or lighter and portable for the carpenter to use on-site. You just need to be a little math savvy.Ĭontributor P, I have figured out the design of such a machine. If you know of one, share with the world its existence.Ī real good math freeware program will calculate compound miters. I've never seen or heard about any kind of template or machine to cut a cope. Professional installers still need to be good at crown install - it's their job to learn it. If crown is long enough to do a room in 4 pieces, I cope 1 end on 3 pieces in the shop and the last one is a cut to fit double cope in the field. On small jobs I plan out pieces and cope all but the last piece. Would either of these ideas be of interest to installers? I have been considering two alternative answers to coping mouldings, and wonder what installers acceptance would be to:Ī) Getting all mouldings supplied with pre-machined cope on both ends orī) a small template guided machine that will machine the cope on site. View a sample of Gary Katz's Crown Installation Video Not quite as good as software, but you can get fairly close. Also find a miter chart and give everyone a copy. I use a program by "Easy shop series" but I don't see it marketed anymore. The best improvement I had with installing crown was the software. Even the best craftsman will work hard to make a good crown install. Small bandsaw, jigsaw, coping saw, they all have their drawbacks. I tried the coping foot with a jig saw, but it seemed to solve one problem and create another.Ĭrown over 4" is really difficult, no getting around it. The bigger the crown, the harder it is to do. I use a sanding block or belt sander to finish. I use a tablesaw on an installer's workbench (foldup unit) to hog out most of the material for the cope. ![]() And I put up the long pieces first with straight cuts so the shorter pieces have the cope. I use a crown molding software program to calculate the bevel and miter cuts. All shops have to figure in an extra 4 or 5 bucks per inside joint on the estimate. One of the most difficult things for a millwork installer to deal with. ![]() Not sure if this addresses your problem areas but thought it worth a try. I like a glued miter joint when I'm dealing with a flat and square background of my own making. I try and deal with anything possible in the shop because it always seems to get more difficult once you are on site. My approach when setting crown to my own blocking set on top of the cases (I build frameless) is to cut all miters in the shop and deal with only square cuts at the site. If you are installing crown into a wall to ceiling situation with bumps, out of squareness, etc., then coping is very useful when coming into an inside corner. Here's one take from a maker/installer's point of view. (Cabinet and Millwork Installation Forum) Any tips on installing/cutting crown molding? Right now it seems to be a huge bottleneck in my installs, especially coping inside corners.
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